THE SUBIC EXPAT #2- Travel, Traffic, Food
THE SUBIC EXPAT #2-Travel, Traffic, Food
When I first came to Manila I traveled to Barrio Barretto in a sensible and safe manner for the new arrival. Following the advice of a tourist guidebook, I went to the Swagman Hotel in the morning, had a great breakfast, and then rode their air-con bus to Angeles. I stayed overnight in Angeles, then the air-con Swagman bus to Barretto the next day. The bus will take you to any resort in Barreto or Baloy. Both Swagman hotels have a very fine restaurant. At each reception desk the female clerk asked: “Sir, you are alone? You don’t have a girlfriend?” (Hmmmmmmmmm, methinks I will like this place). I had to explain I had only been in country a couple of days.
Thanks to the tutelage of my honeyko Sheryl, I now ride on the air-con Victory Liner with ease and with much less expense! The Victory terminal in Olongapo is easy to find as it is near the end point for the Blue Jeepneys coming from Barretto. Leaving Olongapo you wind your way up Zig-Zag Pass, a WW II battle scene, then cross the northern tip of Bataan Province, through Pampanga Province to the terminal at San Fernando. After a short wait you take the freeway to Manila. There is a 20-30 minute rest stop at a canteen with numerous food shops. At the end of your trip, in Manila, is the Pasay Victory terminal. From there it is a cab to your final destination.
A downside to Victory Liner travel is that it is hard on the nerves of a foreigner until you become used to the driving manner in the Republic of the Philippines. Most highways are narrow two-lane affairs and are often full of humanity and vehicles. Sitting in the front where you can see ahead, there is a bunch of slow moving obstacles which the bus swerves around at considerable speed. My first trip at night, speeding in the rain, with the Greyhound size bus leaning on the mountain curves, was a bit unnerving. My Filipino friends tell me there are many accidents and fatalities between Victory Liners and tricycles or pedestrians. They have told me of a rumor that the drivers are instructed to make sure all serious accidents are fatal. The rumor is; that if the victim lives there is a lifetime of payment to the victim whereas if the person dies, there is a one time payment to the family. Quien Sabe? as my Mexican friends say.
Even in Barrio Barretto, the side streets are quite full. Rizal Street is full of small markets and very slow traffic .At the corner joining the National Highway is The Coffee Shop, a popular place for a Filipino meal and for very large tacos. The next store is a busy grocery. Continuing east, you encounter many market stalls selling fruits, vegetables, and meat. Unlike the big City Market in Olongapo, the meat stands here have hordes of flies and the vendors are flicking their fly whisks constantly. The city jail is also on Rizal Street and often has line of family members waiting to visit. Further on it becomes residential with apartment and houses from humble to grand. It eventually goes to the Grade School, the High School and Columbian College. The tricycle traffic is very heavy, taking students to and from the schools morning, noon, and afternoon. Tricycles are small motorcycles with covered sidecars for transporting people around town. Because it is less congested after you pass Jolo Street, the speed and noise increase. The exhaust noise, reverberating off the walled compounds is very loud. .
Several days a week I ride my bicycle from Rizal Street, along sleepy Jolo Street on my way to the Marmont Gym on Del Pilar. Even on Jolo Street there are dogs sleeping in the road, kids darting out, cars parked on either side, heading in either direction. Pedestrians walk 2-3 abreast on either side of the road or the middle. They do not heed horn warnings to make way. Bicycles and bicycle carts move slowly along the street. Tricycles go at breakneck speed dodging and swerving around all these obstacles. Even on these side streets a tricycle driver is honor bound to pass anything moving slower than he is, and passing can be accomplished on either side. Ah well, when I lived in Mexico as a young man there were also burros roaming the streets in the small towns.
When I reach Del Pilar Street, I ride west again toward the National Highway. On my right I encounter the Marmont Hotel and gym. The hotel is now called the Westbay, but to long time residents, it will always be The Marmont. Many expats live there. It has a great interior court and swimming pool.
My gym is properly called the WKC Karate and Fitness Center. It is large and well furnished with free weights, weight machines, and cardio devices. The gym is managed by Tom Allen (USMC Retired) and his wife Rochelle, who is a karate Black Belt. The karate instructor is Sunny Garcia, a high level Black Belt, a tournament champion, and former instructor on the Navy Base. He offers both group classes and private instruction. There is a health bar where one can buy whey protein shakes with creatine. The monthly rate is very reasonable and many expats work out at this gym
Across the street from the Marmot at Del Pilar #14 is VFW Post 11447. Their canteen serves excellent American meals with specials every day.
The American breakfasts are all very good. My favorite breakfast there is Huevos Rancheros and they state that the freshly made tortillas are flown in from Guadalajara, Mexico each day?? They have a big paperback lending library and even some videos.
Just up the street here is the Suds and Duds Laundry which is used by many exats. They too have a paperback lending library.
At the end of Del Pilar, on the National Highway, just turn right and find the best restaurant in town in the opinion of many expats. Tom Drydens Hotel, Restaurant and Videoke parlor has the greatest breakfast selection in town. The portions are huge for all meals and the prices reasonable. There is a steady stream of expats and locals here from early morning till late evening. It is a custom for many guys to gather for breakfast and watch CNN to comment on the antics of politicians in Manila and Washington.
Tom Dryden is a colorful character, and not just for the very loud Hawaiian shirts he always wears. Tom can regale you for hours with his travel stories. He was a U.S. marine in the Pacific during WW2. In addition to owning restaurants in Mexico, Spain, and the United States, he has been a fisherman and sailor. He goes every day to the Olongapo market in his red pickup truck to buy fresh produce for his restaurant. The waitresses are always cheerful and polite, saying “Good morning Sir, Thank you Sir”. It is a place you do not want to miss!
When I first came to Manila I traveled to Barrio Barretto in a sensible and safe manner for the new arrival. Following the advice of a tourist guidebook, I went to the Swagman Hotel in the morning, had a great breakfast, and then rode their air-con bus to Angeles. I stayed overnight in Angeles, then the air-con Swagman bus to Barretto the next day. The bus will take you to any resort in Barreto or Baloy. Both Swagman hotels have a very fine restaurant. At each reception desk the female clerk asked: “Sir, you are alone? You don’t have a girlfriend?” (Hmmmmmmmmm, methinks I will like this place). I had to explain I had only been in country a couple of days.
Thanks to the tutelage of my honeyko Sheryl, I now ride on the air-con Victory Liner with ease and with much less expense! The Victory terminal in Olongapo is easy to find as it is near the end point for the Blue Jeepneys coming from Barretto. Leaving Olongapo you wind your way up Zig-Zag Pass, a WW II battle scene, then cross the northern tip of Bataan Province, through Pampanga Province to the terminal at San Fernando. After a short wait you take the freeway to Manila. There is a 20-30 minute rest stop at a canteen with numerous food shops. At the end of your trip, in Manila, is the Pasay Victory terminal. From there it is a cab to your final destination.
A downside to Victory Liner travel is that it is hard on the nerves of a foreigner until you become used to the driving manner in the Republic of the Philippines. Most highways are narrow two-lane affairs and are often full of humanity and vehicles. Sitting in the front where you can see ahead, there is a bunch of slow moving obstacles which the bus swerves around at considerable speed. My first trip at night, speeding in the rain, with the Greyhound size bus leaning on the mountain curves, was a bit unnerving. My Filipino friends tell me there are many accidents and fatalities between Victory Liners and tricycles or pedestrians. They have told me of a rumor that the drivers are instructed to make sure all serious accidents are fatal. The rumor is; that if the victim lives there is a lifetime of payment to the victim whereas if the person dies, there is a one time payment to the family. Quien Sabe? as my Mexican friends say.
Even in Barrio Barretto, the side streets are quite full. Rizal Street is full of small markets and very slow traffic .At the corner joining the National Highway is The Coffee Shop, a popular place for a Filipino meal and for very large tacos. The next store is a busy grocery. Continuing east, you encounter many market stalls selling fruits, vegetables, and meat. Unlike the big City Market in Olongapo, the meat stands here have hordes of flies and the vendors are flicking their fly whisks constantly. The city jail is also on Rizal Street and often has line of family members waiting to visit. Further on it becomes residential with apartment and houses from humble to grand. It eventually goes to the Grade School, the High School and Columbian College. The tricycle traffic is very heavy, taking students to and from the schools morning, noon, and afternoon. Tricycles are small motorcycles with covered sidecars for transporting people around town. Because it is less congested after you pass Jolo Street, the speed and noise increase. The exhaust noise, reverberating off the walled compounds is very loud. .
Several days a week I ride my bicycle from Rizal Street, along sleepy Jolo Street on my way to the Marmont Gym on Del Pilar. Even on Jolo Street there are dogs sleeping in the road, kids darting out, cars parked on either side, heading in either direction. Pedestrians walk 2-3 abreast on either side of the road or the middle. They do not heed horn warnings to make way. Bicycles and bicycle carts move slowly along the street. Tricycles go at breakneck speed dodging and swerving around all these obstacles. Even on these side streets a tricycle driver is honor bound to pass anything moving slower than he is, and passing can be accomplished on either side. Ah well, when I lived in Mexico as a young man there were also burros roaming the streets in the small towns.
When I reach Del Pilar Street, I ride west again toward the National Highway. On my right I encounter the Marmont Hotel and gym. The hotel is now called the Westbay, but to long time residents, it will always be The Marmont. Many expats live there. It has a great interior court and swimming pool.
My gym is properly called the WKC Karate and Fitness Center. It is large and well furnished with free weights, weight machines, and cardio devices. The gym is managed by Tom Allen (USMC Retired) and his wife Rochelle, who is a karate Black Belt. The karate instructor is Sunny Garcia, a high level Black Belt, a tournament champion, and former instructor on the Navy Base. He offers both group classes and private instruction. There is a health bar where one can buy whey protein shakes with creatine. The monthly rate is very reasonable and many expats work out at this gym
Across the street from the Marmot at Del Pilar #14 is VFW Post 11447. Their canteen serves excellent American meals with specials every day.
The American breakfasts are all very good. My favorite breakfast there is Huevos Rancheros and they state that the freshly made tortillas are flown in from Guadalajara, Mexico each day?? They have a big paperback lending library and even some videos.Just up the street here is the Suds and Duds Laundry which is used by many exats. They too have a paperback lending library.
At the end of Del Pilar, on the National Highway, just turn right and find the best restaurant in town in the opinion of many expats. Tom Drydens Hotel, Restaurant and Videoke parlor has the greatest breakfast selection in town. The portions are huge for all meals and the prices reasonable. There is a steady stream of expats and locals here from early morning till late evening. It is a custom for many guys to gather for breakfast and watch CNN to comment on the antics of politicians in Manila and Washington.
Tom Dryden is a colorful character, and not just for the very loud Hawaiian shirts he always wears. Tom can regale you for hours with his travel stories. He was a U.S. marine in the Pacific during WW2. In addition to owning restaurants in Mexico, Spain, and the United States, he has been a fisherman and sailor. He goes every day to the Olongapo market in his red pickup truck to buy fresh produce for his restaurant. The waitresses are always cheerful and polite, saying “Good morning Sir, Thank you Sir”. It is a place you do not want to miss!
posted by TheProfessor | 12:47 PM
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